1. Check to make sure that your thermostat is set in the "cool" position.
    
2. Ensure that your outdoor air conditioning (condensing unit) is running.  Check the circuit breakers in the circuit breaker box (or electrical panel), most likely mounted to an outside wall in the back of the house.  Are they in the "ON' position?
    
3. Ensure that the blower motor in your furnace is running.  (If the thermostat is in the "cool" position, the furnace blower should be running.)
    
4. Be sure that you have changed your filter in the furnace recently.  An extremely blocked filter can cause your outdoor air conditioner unit to shut down due to lack of proper flow.
    
5. Check all return air grilles to make sure they are not blocked by furniture.

1. What do good air comfort units have in common?
   The best ones are efficient, operating on minimal electricity to hold utility bills down.  They provide steady, dependable performance year after year when properly maintained.  Good systems are quiet, long-lasting and low in service needs.
    
2. How can you be sure you're purchasing the right size unit?
   An air conditioner that is too small won't keep your home sufficiently cool.  But what many don't realize is that an over sized system will cycle (turn on and off) more than necessary.  This wastes expensive energy and possibly putting undue strain on the compressor.
    
3. How can you be sure an air conditioner is energy efficient?
   Today's air conditioner manufacturers are required by law to evaluate and rate their equipment according to its energy efficiency.  This rating is known in the industry as a SEER, or Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating.  The higher the SEER, the more efficient the equipment.
   
   Most new homes with central air are equipped with a builder's model.  When replacement becomes necessary, property owners should upgrade their systems by specifying a more energy-efficient system.
    
4. Are some air conditioners built better than others?
   The compressor is the heart of a condensing unit.  On a hot day, it works long and hard.  For that matter it's a good idea to invest in a brand name system that is professionally installed and includes a generous warranty.
    
5. What should you look for in a dealer?
   Dependability.  Look for a dealer you see in your community.  You want one who is close by to provide you faster, more convenient service when you need it. 
   
   A professional dealer has also made a substantial investment in spare parts so that you won't have to sit out a hot summer heat wave waiting for a part to be ordered.

An air conditioner cleans, circulates, cools, and dehumidifies (removes undesirable moisture from) indoor air.  A filter cleans the air by trapping dust and other small particles.  An air handler (blower built into the system) circulates it, while the cooling and dehumidifying are accomplished by a process called refrigeration.

 

Refrigeration
Refrigeration cools a home by transferring heat inside a home to the outdoors.  All central air conditioners employ two main units in this process -- the indoor unit and the condensing unit.

 

The Indoor Unit
This unit removes undesirable indoor warmth and humidity.  It includes the filter, the air handler and the evaporator coil.  The air handler blows filtered air through the evaporator coil.

 

The evaporator coil is kept cold by the circulation of a substance called a refrigerant.  Air that travels across the evaporator coil gives up heat and humidity.

 

The cooler, drier air that continues through the air ducts is vented throughout your home to maintain your desired comfort level.

 

The Condensing Unit
Outdoors, at the condensing unit, an air conditioner releases the heat that was captured indoors.  The same refrigerant that absorbed the heat indoors at low pressure is now pressurized -- by the compressor -- and is circulated through another coil, the condensing coil.

 

In the condensing coil, under high pressure, the refrigerant releases its heat very quickly, making the coil itself hot.  A fan blows across the coil, cooling its temperature down and transferring the heat to the outside air.

 

1. What is the average lifespan of a central air conditioner?  VIDEO

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2. What should I do in advance to make sure my air conditioning system will work efficiently during the summer?  VIDEO

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3. When do I know it is time to replace my system?  VIDEO

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4. Can homeowners repair their own air conditioner?  VIDEO

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5. If my air conditioner is no longer cooling properly, what is the most common problem?  VIDEO

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6. How often should I change the air filter in my system?  VIDEO

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7. If I'm buying a house, how can I be sure that the air conditioning is working properly?  VIDEO

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8. Should I replace both my outdoor condensing unit (which includes the compressor) and the indoor coil on my central air conditioning system at the same time?  VIDEO

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9. Is it better to let a central cooling system wear out before replacing it, or replacing it at some point before it wears out?  VIDEO

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1. Check to make sure that your thermostat is set in the "heat" position.
    
2. Make sure that the temperature setting on the thermostat is set above (or higher than) the indoor temperature showing on the thermostat.
    
3. Ensure that there is a power to the furnace.  Try turning the fan to "ON" using the fan switch on the thermostat to test for power to furnace.
    
4. Check the circuit breakers at the electrical panel to make sure they are in the "ON" position.
    
5. Check the SSU switch (it looks like a light switch on a gray box located at the furnace) to be sure it is in the "ON" position.
    
6. Replace the furnace filter if necessary.  All 1-inch thick furnace filters should be replaced monthly.  Purolator 2-inch thick, and other high-capacity pleated filters can most likely be changed every other month or just 6 times per year.
    
7. If the system is running but you have not changed your filter, the filter may need to be replaced.
    
8. Check all return air grilles to make sure they are not blocked by furniture.  Check all supply air registers to make sure they are open and blowing air.  The return air grilles are normally located on your walls and are wide and flat.
    

1. Ask family and friends for recommendations of professionals they've hired in the past.  Other good sources include referrals, contractors, real estate agents and your local plumbing supply store.
    
2. Find out if the plumber specializes in residential or commercial work.
    
3. Ask to see the plumber's licenses and proof certifications.  Many states require a license or state certification for plumbers working in that state.  Call to verify that the license is current and check if there are any active complaints against the license.
    
4. Be sure that the prospective plumber you are considering is fully insured, having both worker's compensation and liability insurance.
    
5. Any plumber that you are considering should be willing to provide a free written estimate that includes a materials list.  The contract should spell out the scope of the project, any items that are excluded and the terms of payment.
    
6. Be sure that the plumber installs products made with quality materials.  Such quality materials usually include recognizable brand names that offer manufacturer's warranties to the consumer.
    
7. Avoid paying to replace a leaking copper pipe with a copper replacement.  You should be aware that alternative materials such as chlorinated polyvinyl chloride are on the market that offer superior reliability and performance compared to old-style copper pipes and fittings.
    
8. Ask each plumber that you are considering how long he or she has been in business.  Ask to speak to several people who can vouch for the quality of their work and whether they completed the work on time and within budget.
    
9. Insist on a service guarantee in case there are any problems that need fixing after initial installation.
    
10. Ask your plumber (before hiring him or her) about the steps to prevent injuries and property damage.  A common problem when installing copper pipe is a solder torch that gets too close to dry wall or wood joists in tight places.